| The
Manly Heritage Plaques Walk |
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9.
Village of North Harbour
North Harbour Reserve
Historically,
this area is one of the oldest parts of Manly, dating back to the
arrival of the First Fleet in 1788. Manly derives its name from
Captain Arthur Phillip's description of the 'manly natives' that
greeted him, and a subsequent map by Captain John Hunter placed
Manly Cove off North Harbour reserve. Surveyor John Oxley noted in
1827 that the land in North Harbour had "long been pointed out
as a proper situation to be reserved for the site of a
village". It was particularly attractive because three fresh
water streams could supply the potential village and one of them,
the waterfall flowing beneath the bridge at Gourlay Avenue, can
still be seen. The village was laid out in 1828 but the area had
attracted settlement well before then. The map below shows a small
hut once occupied by John Fincham who had arrived with the Third
Fleet in 1791, and he was subsequently granted Lot 19 in the
Village. Improved roads and reliable motor transport in the 1920s
contributed significantly to the changes that turned the Village of
North Harbour into the suburb of Balgowlah. In 1938 the large sandy
bay which had originally extended to Condamine Street was reclaimed
and made into the present park.

Courtesy:
Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW
10.
Dalley's Castle
In
Gilbert Park near Tower Street An imposing residence called Marinella,
or place by the sea, more popularly known as Dalley's Castle, once
occupied the site of the flats opposite the position of this plaque.
William Bede Dalley (1831-1888) has a statue in Hyde Park and memorials
in St Mary's Cathedral, Sydney and St Paul's Cathedral, London dedicated
to him. He was born in Sydney of an English Protestant father and
Irish Catholic mother, both ex-convicts. His intellect and powerful
oratory were noticed by his mentor, Archbishop Polding, who encouraged
him to enter journalism, law and politics. He became NSW Attorney-General
and in 1885 served as Acting Premier.

Photographer
Leon Cayley Courtesy: Manly Library
Dalley
had a passion for grand homes. He built the mansion Clairvaux, overlooking
Rose Bay, with its great view of Sydney Harbour. He sold it immediately
after his wife's early death on 17 January 1881, which left him
with five young children under eight years old. He bought the site
opposite on 15 December 1882 erecting the building shown in the
photograph. Despite its imposing appearance, other photographs taken
at the rear suggest that it was only partially completed. He owned
the property for a mere five and a half years. Dogged by sickness
he sold it in 1888 and died five months later in Sydney, at the
relatively young age of 57. His funeral was attended by 6000 people
and among the floral tributes was a wreath of flannel flowers collected
at Manly and presented by the Municipality. Dalley's Castle was
owned by the McGaw family for many years and then in the 1930s it
became the Camden Grammar School. It was eventually demolished in
1939. Part of the land was acquired by the Housing Commission, and
the flats Marinella were erected and opened by the Minister for
Housing, Clive Evatt, on the 3rd of June 1950.
Dalley
Park
(On reverse of 'Dalley's Castle' plaque)
The
original name of Dalley Park was Tower Hill Park, a name that is
still used on formal land records. This older name goes back to
Manly's earliest beginnings when Henry Gilbert Smith laid out Manly
much as it is today. Several parks and open spaces were incorporated
into the design. An 1855 plan shows this area as Tower Hill Park
with a tower marked thereon. This tower was in fact a Camera Obscura.
This was a novelty of the time where, in a darkened room, optical
images of the surrounding countryside were projected on to a screen.
The above photograph of the tower was taken shortly before its demolition
and does not show the original dome that housed the viewing lens.
15 10 The current name Dalley Park is misleading in that the park
was never owned by William Dalley who built Dalley's Castle which
once stood nearby. (see reverse plaque). Manly Council was constituted
in 1877 and in 1879 H.G. Smith generously donated many of Manly's
parks and open spaces to Manly Council including this park. A small
parcel of land embracing the tower and adjacent cottage was excised
from the park and sold by H.G. Smith in 1878. For some years this
was part of the Dalley's Castle estate, but was eventually bought
by Council in 1920 and is now incorporated in the park.

Photograph
by Frank Bell Courtesy: Manly Art Gallery & Museum
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11.
Queenscliff Bridge
North Steyne, near the bridge
Manly
Lagoon, described on the reverse of this plaque, forms the northern
boundary of the Manly local government area. It could only be crossed
at the entrance at low tide. In 1885 a footbridge was constructed
across the lagoon entrance by real estate developers which facilitated
land sales in the Queenscliff area by improving access to Manly. The
lagoon then was extensive and there were few houses in the vicinity.
The words of Francis Myers author of Beautiful Manly reveal this. He
recommended stopping on the bridge to admire the view. He said: It is
most divine on an afternoon with the sun well down the hills, and a
silvery light upon all the broad water. The wet rocks then upon the
Queenscliff side glisten through all their gleaming leaves, and there
is a glory upon the pines that clothe the little convent hill, and far
up the flat the light sprays of the oaks are as feathers of gold above
the swart growth of 17 scrub and ti-tree. With a sufficient light
through their shadowy depths the forest-bearing hills shut the picture
in. The convent hill mentioned above was the Star of the Sea Convent
which was located on a property purchased by the Sisters of the Good
Samaritan Order in 1881. The land extended along the banks of Manly
Lagoon and from the ocean front to Pittwater Road. Much of the land
was later subdivided and sold. The original stone house was replaced
in 1931 and the name of the school latinised to Stella Maris. In 1918
Manly and Warringah Councils replaced the footbridge with a vehicular
bridge which was widened in the 1930s and eventually replaced with the
present one in 1990.

Photograph
courtesy: Manly Art Gallery & Museum
11.
Manly Lagoon
(On reverse of 'Queenscliff Bridge' plaque)
Early
maps name this area Curl Curl Lagoon but the name was later changed to
Manly Lagoon. Manly Lagoon is fed by a large catchment area including
the areas of Warringah Mall and Manly Dam. Much of this area was
marshy wetlands. A large part of the low lying land has been reclaimed
particularly in the 1920s by Mr A.T. Keirle, a one time Mayor of
Manly, after whom Keirle Park is named. The areas reclaimed also
include Manly Golf Course, Lagoon Park, Hinkler Park, Warringah Golf
Course (south of Kentwell Road) and Nolan Reserve. Market gardens
sprang up along the creeks which fed into the lagoon at Manly Vale and
Brookvale. Hinkler Park was originally an island and the lagoon flowed
either side of it. In the 1950s, the southern flow was infilled as
part of roadworks to accommodate Pittwater Road. Urban growth has
resulted in increased pollution of the lagoon. This problem is being
addressed jointly by Manly and Warringah Councils.
Photograph
courtesy: Manly Library
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12.
The Jenkins Road
King Avenue
This
plaque overlooks the southern end of the early road from North
Harbour, Balgowlah, to Long Reef, Collaroy. Even today Condamine
Street, Old Pittwater Road and Pittwater Road mark much of the old
route. The road and its thirteen bridges were built in 1826 by James
Jenkins (1776-1835) at a personal cost of £300. He needed the road to
transport produce from his Long Reef farm to North Harbour for the
water crossing to Sydney's markets. On shore below this plaque,
Jenkins built a small stone house and a landing place for his boat.
The choice of this location was no doubt influenced by the presence of
a constant flowing stream. When he petitioned Governor Darling for
this land in March 1827 he reported that he needed these facilities
because leaving his horse tied to a tree, its harness secreted in the
bush, and his cart out in the open, meant that "any malicious or
felonious person" could steal them. He worried, too, about his
boat and its usefulness to "every fugitive convict or other evil
disposed persons." Jenkins himself, was a convict who arrived in
Sydney on the Coromandel in 1802. In the space of a few years he
established himself in boat building, stonemasonry and farming. He
lived with his family in Kent Street, Sydney, and owned 1740 acres
(704 hectares) of land extending from Mona Vale to Dee Why and 2½
acres at North Harbour. A substantial part of the Jenkins estate was
given to the Salvation Army by his daughter Elizabeth who died in
1900. When King Avenue was built in 1920, the site of Jenkins's stone
house became 3 King Avenue.
13.
Bridging the Spit
Spit Bridge, Avona Crescent
As early
as 1829, there was a rowing boat service to ferry passengers across
Middle Harbour. In about 1850, Peter Ellery began a hand operated
punt service. This proved inadequate and in 1888-89, proposals for
a low level bridge at The Spit which could be opened for yachts
was submitted by the Parliamentary Standing Committee on Public
Works to the Legislative Assembly. Plans were also prepared for
a steam punt designed to carry eight ordinary sized buggies in one
trip with a crew of two. It was planned that this punt would operate
until the bridge was completed and then be removed to another site.
A high level bridge to take a railway line across Middle Harbour
was also proposed at the time.
Photograph
courtesy: Manly Art Gallery & Museum
The
steam punt, introduced in 1889 became a reality. The low level bridge
was to follow 35 years later. The high level bridge and railway
to this day have not eventuated. Public demand for a tram service
to connect Manly to North Sydney via The Spit resulted in a Spit
to Manly service being established in 1911. Passengers coming from
North Sydney on the tram service had to alight at the Mosman side
of The Spit, transfer to the punt on foot, then join another tram
for the trip to Manly. Although the punt 'bridged' The Spit, it
was a drawnout journey and unpleasant in inclement weather. In 1922
Manly Municipal Council Alderman A.A. Kemp proposed that Manly and
Mosman Councils in conjunction with the Tramways Department build
a low level bridge with tolls levied to pay for it. The most favoured
design would carry two lines of tramway and cost £150,000. Timber
was to be used in the construction of what was intended to be a
temporary structure. However, the bridge actually built was without
the tramlines and cost about £70,000. The bridge was opened on 23rd
December 1924 by Premier Sir George Fuller. The toll ceased in March
1930 and from that date the bridge was maintained, managed and administered
by the NSW Public Works Department With the completion of the Sydney
Harbour Bridge, the land north of Middle Harbour was becoming more
closely settled, the Spit Bridge could no longer cope with the volume
of traffic using it. A new bridge was needed, but the outbreak of
World War II delayed its construction. It was not until 1958 that
a replacement bridge was constructed. Unfortunately, future growth
in population and car traffic were not addressed in planning the
new bridge. The Spit Bridge was designed as a low level bridge with
an opening span.
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