The broken column memorial is a fine piece of Victorian monumental architecture, erected in 1908. The broken column, signifying a life cut off before its natural term, is dedicated to troopers who died fighting in South Africa in 1900; also to F.C. Smalpage who drowned while attempting to save Miss M. Thorpe - a reminder of how close the ocean is in the life of Manly.

Recent excavations revealed a midden, evidence that Aborigines used to eat here. They were very skilled at catching fish, which provided the main part of
their diet. Using lines, spears or nets, men and women fished from the shore and in canoes. They cooked fish on a small fire aboard their canoes, or on the shore leaving shells and fish bones to be found centuries later.

East Esplanade was the focal point of the Venetian Carnivals. In 1913 for the first occasion 2,000 seats were set up here to view the spectacle. Over the
years the carnivals grew, lasting for up to two weeks, and attracting thousands
of people. Highlights mentioned in the Sydney Morning Herald in January 1913 included stalls, 'chocolate wheels and other gambling devices', food, costumes, parades and fireworks. The climax was the water pageant, with all the boats and the harbour foreshore decorated with hundreds of Chinese lanterns, flags and streamers. At a time of limited lighting it was remarkable to see 'Manly and its cove..... wrapped in dazzling splendour'.

Walk along East Esplanade towards the wharf

The Norfolk Island pines here were planted in 1881, in the same year that the sandstone harbour wall was originally constructed. From Manly Council's inception, under its Beautification Scheme, it set out to provide a restful and pleasing atmosphere by planting a variety of large trees. The recent renovations here, improving paths and providing grassy shaded spaces for picnics, continue this tradition.

A cargo wharf once stood next to the ferry terminal. In 1893, a group of Manly residents formed the Manly Co-operative Steam Ferry Company breaking the monopoly of the Port Jackson Company which provided both the passenger and goods service for Manly. The competition reduced fares and increased services. As there were disputes about the use of the wharf the Government took over the wharf from Manly Council and built a second wharf so both companies could operate from here.

However, in 1896, the Manly Cooperative collapsed and thereafter its wharf was used exclusively for cargo. The cargo wharf was of great importance for the first quarter of the century, when cargo was no longer carried on the passenger ferries, but by a separate fleet. The opening of the Spit Bridge in 1924 allowed easier passage of goods by land, consequently water transport decreased dramatically and the cargo wharf ceased operation by 1928. Inter it became a Fun Pier and was replaced by the existing complex in 1989.

The terrace houses, nos. 41 and 42 East Esplanade, two of the earliest buildings of Manly still standing, are best seen from the park. Only the facade remains of these early Gothic Revival terraces built in the 1870s. They were about to be demolished in the early 1990s but protests by residents persuaded Manly Council to save them by refusing demolition consent.

Cross by the pedestrian crossing opposite Wentworth Street and return to The Corso

In 1810 Governor Macquarie granted a total of 130 acres to Gilbert Baker and Richard Cheers. The boundaries extended from the southern side of The Corso to St Patrick's Estate. John Thompson's grant of' 100 acres, on the northern side of The Corso, was purchased by Henry Gilbert Smith in 1853 and was quickly developed by him.

D'Arcy Wentworth bought both the Baker and Cheers grants and bequeathed them to his daughter Katherine Darley-Bassett. Henry Gilbert Smith leased this land in the 1850s. Legal complications regarding title prevented its sale until the Bassett-Darley Act of 1877 resolved the situation and the land was subdivided.

A number of late 19th century buildings remain on The Corso although their ground floors have been altered. Many commercial buildings had balconies which not only created extra space but also provided shelter for people on the footpath.

One of the great attractions in Manly last century was the Aquarium which was located approximately on the site of the present Westpac Bank. It was opened on 23 December 1886 by William Bede Dalley. Visitors could view a fine collection of fish, seals and tiger sharks. There was an octopus and an alligator too. The seal cavern and fernery were illuminated by electric light, Manly's latest novelty. The Aquarium was also an entertainment centre where concerts, dances and roller skating could be enjoyed in the grand hall. By 1893 the Aquarium had closed and the building was used to stage Manly's annual Wild Flower Show because the old pavilion in Ivanhoe Park had become too dilapidated.

Across the street, the words 'Purves Bakery l898' can be read high on the facade. When John Purves opened his bakery he stored his flour in a loft, which was retained when an arcade of shops was built on this site. In 1972 William Orr converted it into a theatre-restaurant called the Music Loft.
From 1983 it continued for six more years, under new owner Peter Flanagan,
as a theatre-restaurant called Flannos.

Cross Darley Road to St Matthew's Church

The church marks the beginning of The Corso pedestrian plaza, designed by local landscape architect Bruce Mackenzie, opened in 1979. The sandstone St Matthew's church designed by Edmund Blacket, architect of several churches in New South Wales stood on the site of shops nos. 46 to 55. Henry Gilbert Smith laid the foundation stone of the church in 1864. When The Corso was widened to 29 metres in 1877 the church encroached upon the street until it was demolished in 1928. The present church opened two years later on the site of the Victoria Hall. Victoria Hall was built in 1901. It housed the Manly School of Arts later
called the Manly Literary Institute. Muff Smith in an interview with the Manly Daily in 1984 recalled that 'at the Vic- every concert, banquet, dramatic show and ball, notably the big three annuals, the hospital, the Masonic and the Catholic, were held there'. Opposite St Matthew's church is the Ivanhoe Hotel, previously known as the Colonnade Hotel. There has been an Ivanhoe Hotel in Manly since 1876. Thomas Adrian built the first in Ivanhoe Park. Alter the hotel moved to The Corso Manly Council held its meetings in the old hotel in the park until 1909 and from then until 1923 the magistrate's court convened there.

Opposite, on the corner of Rialto Lane stands the modern shopping complex La Galerie. In the late 1890s this was the site of the merry-go-round owned by Sovereign Smith - so named because he wore gold coins on his jacket and waistcoat. He made enough money from the merry-go-round to buy this block of land. His generosity to local charities made him a legend. He was particularly popular with children for whom he set aside flee-ride days every month in the summer. In 1923 the Rialto cinema opened on this site. It was later renamed the Odeon but closed in 1960. '

This is the end of 'the heritage walk The Heart of Manly.

For further information on Manly's history apply to the local history section at Manly Library and visit the Manly Art Gallery & Museum located in West Esplanade Reserve, Manly Cove, next to Oceanworld.

If you would like refreshment there are numerous hotels and restaurants waiting to serve you in the best of Manly traditions, dating from 1855 when Henry Gilbert Smith first opened the doors of the Pier Hotel.

Cr Sue Sacker, Chair
Cr Nancy Burridge
Ms Jean Allan
Ms Virginia MacLeod
Mr Ken Muir
Ms Joan Patrick
Ms Judy Reizes
Ms Maureen Smith

The Heritage Walk Subcommittee Wishes to extend its very great appreciation to those community members and organisations who have contributed to the research of the walk.

Manly Art Gallery & Museum
Ian Hayes, Conservation Consultant, National Trust of Australia
Mary White
Custom Mapping Services

Copyright Manly Council

Map by Helen Pajak
Line drawings by Leith Nicholson and Shannon Mclntyre-Crees